how do you label your hyperfocal distance?

[pitbull]

kakainis yun mga mabago bagong lenses, wala masyadong focusing aids. may mga nakikita akong sinusulatan ang lens, mga iba naman nilalagyan ng tapes at labels. kayo ba, paano ba ninyo ginagawa?

nakakaasar na kasi mag chamba ng hyperfocal distance, hindi naman ako magaling magsukat na gamit lang ng mata, eh malabo na din mata ko kahit may salamin na ako. 

 f/22  .323-232323232323232323232323232323 m
 
f/16  .444-444444444444444444444444444444 m
 
f/11  .646-464646464646464646464646464646 m

eto sa ang mga formula na gusto kong ilagay sa 16-35mm ko,e. ang liit liit ng focus window at wala masyadong distance.
 

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[pitbull]

balak ko sana is i focus na lang sa kamay ko na nasa harap ng lens ko,e. pero yun distance mula ba sa dulo ng lens yan or sa film plane o kaya sa lens mount? salamat ng madami sa tulong

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[Jagner]

Pitbull,

Sa akin, ginagamit ko nalang nalang yung lower third focus point ko, to approximate.  Ang mahirap kasi sa mga modern lenses, eh, yung diaphragm gagalaw lang upon clicking the shutter.  Kunsabagay, puwede ding gamitin yung DoF preview to check.

Esle, either we memorize the formula for hyperfocal distance., or download yung app to compute for DoF on our smartphones.


 

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[pitbull]

Thanks, balak ko kasi for now is mag print sa karton then ipa laminate para tumagal yun karton, dyan ko na lang ilalagay yun formula. mas OK kaysa idikit ko sa tape sa ilalim ng lens titignan ko pa lagi. pwede ko pa gamitin yun karton na yon as grey card etc.

yun bang distance, from the front of the lens ba yan or from the sensor? parang mas logical na from the sensor,e.

pag nagawa ko na yun *toink* na template na yan para sa 16-35mm, upload ko siya para pwede i print ng madami.

generally f/8-f/16 lang naman ang nilalaro ng aperture ko kapag landscapes,e.

sa lumang AF-D na prime ko, kahit paano nagagawa ko pang mag hypefocal dahil may patawa siyang focus window. sa 16-35, useless talaga. inutil

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[Jagner]

Hmmm.... nice idea, puwedeng gawing sticker yung formula at ilagay sa bottom part ng camera

Yung distance, AFAIK, sa may diaphragm ng lente simula ng sukatan ng distanya. 

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[pitbull]

naku, paiba iba pa naman ang diaphragm placement. yun sa may gold ring, principal point ba tawag don? paano ko malalaman kung saan yun aperture diaphragm mismo?

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[Jagner]

nakup, yan din ang kelangan malaman

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[ruel941]

@pitbull: kung kailangan mo sharp from near to far object pwede mo gamitin ang live view instead of making the marks on your lens medyo malakas lang sa battery
here's a helpful article by ian plant: http://www.ianplant.com/articles-using-live-view-nature-photography.htm

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[Jagner]

Uy Doc, di ka na busy

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[pitbull]

nice article, however, Nikon's liveview is not as advanced as Canon's...at least for the D700

ill try the other technique in the article. thanks for sharing

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[centralperk]

@pitbull: kung kailangan mo sharp from near to far object pwede mo gamitin ang live view instead of making the marks on your lens medyo malakas lang sa battery
here's a helpful article by ian plant: http://www.ianplant.com/articles-using-live-view-nature-photography.htm

Thanks for the link. Learned something new. Will try it out soon.

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[Czzz]

Get a cheat sheet for your lenses po Much easier, tapos ipa laminate then dala nalang sa shoot 

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[mikeallansun]

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm
 
copy mo nalang yung calculator table... then save mo sa iphone/ipad mo or better yet, picturan mo using mobile phone ;p

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[Thor Lidasan]

This might sound like a photographic heresy: DOF (ergo hyperfocal distance) is a fuzzy concept. There is only one sharpest point in an image and that is the plane where you have your lens focusing point concentrated at. The planes behind and before that focusing point is not as sharp as that focusing point.

Lalo na ngayon with high resolution sensors like the D800, litaw na litaw yung sharpest point sa image (on pixel-peeping). Ergo, why still use hyperfocal distance concept? Besides, those calculations are nebulous if you really look at the formula for hyperfocal distance.

Ano ginagawa ko?

I place my focusing point at the main subject where I want the sharpest point of the image to be. The aperture then depends on what the image concept needs.

If push comes to shove where I want sharpness to stretch from foreground to background, I can stack 3 images (for example, landscapes) where the focusing points are placed on foreground subject, midground subject, and background subject using the sharpest aperture setting of the lens.

Like I said, my post might sound like a heresy to most landscape photographers but I am very much interested in reading a discussion on the relevance of hyperfocal formula on digital sensors and high resolution sensor sensitivity to the sharpness point of a focal plane.

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[vsupetran]

I suggest you download "DOF Master". It will calculate DOF and Hyperfocal distance for every focal length and aperture. Medyo mabagal gamitin sa umpisa pero after a while you will get familiar with it and not need it anymore.

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[junaquino]

This might sound like a photographic heresy: DOF (ergo hyperfocal distance) is a fuzzy concept. There is only one sharpest point in an image and that is the plane where you have your lens focusing point concentrated at. The planes behind and before that focusing point is not as sharp as that focusing point.

Lalo na ngayon with high resolution sensors like the D800, litaw na litaw yung sharpest point sa image (on pixel-peeping). Ergo, why still use hyperfocal distance concept? Besides, those calculations are nebulous if you really look at the formula for hyperfocal distance.

Ano ginagawa ko?

I place my focusing point at the main subject where I want the sharpest point of the image to be. The aperture then depends on what the image concept needs.

If push comes to shove where I want sharpness to stretch from foreground to background, I can stack 3 images (for example, landscapes) where the focusing points are placed on foreground subject, midground subject, and background subject using the sharpest aperture setting of the lens.

Like I said, my post might sound like a heresy to most landscape photographers but I am very much interested in reading a discussion on the relevance of hyperfocal formula on digital sensors and high resolution sensor sensitivity to the sharpness point of a focal plane.

Fore, mid and back ground then merge nalang sa PS? Para ba tong stacking?

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[Thor Lidasan]

This might sound like a photographic heresy: DOF (ergo hyperfocal distance) is a fuzzy concept. There is only one sharpest point in an image and that is the plane where you have your lens focusing point concentrated at. The planes behind and before that focusing point is not as sharp as that focusing point.

Lalo na ngayon with high resolution sensors like the D800, litaw na litaw yung sharpest point sa image (on pixel-peeping). Ergo, why still use hyperfocal distance concept? Besides, those calculations are nebulous if you really look at the formula for hyperfocal distance.

Ano ginagawa ko?

I place my focusing point at the main subject where I want the sharpest point of the image to be. The aperture then depends on what the image concept needs.

If push comes to shove where I want sharpness to stretch from foreground to background, I can stack 3 images (for example, landscapes) where the focusing points are placed on foreground subject, midground subject, and background subject using the sharpest aperture setting of the lens.

Like I said, my post might sound like a heresy to most landscape photographers but I am very much interested in reading a discussion on the relevance of hyperfocal formula on digital sensors and high resolution sensor sensitivity to the sharpness point of a focal plane.

Fore, mid and back ground then merge nalang sa PS? Para ba tong stacking?

Jun, yep stacking talaga for landscape. Pwede ka gumamit ng stacking program. Pwede rin ikaw na mismo using layers and masking sa Photoshop. People do HDR using for dynamic range "kuno"... (hehehehe halatang anti-HDR ba?) so why not take three shots naman for sharpness.

Heto pa... sa mga forum people go crazy on ultrawide angle lens... 10-20mm, 11-16, 12-24mm lenses... what do you get? distortion... distortion... distortion... funny thing is they criticize the lens for sharpness while closing their eyes sa distortion... where am I going at? Why not use a lens like a 28mm, take several shots of the scene to make a wide angle shot of the scene?

Using a 20mm or a 28mm lens with consistent corner-to-corner sharpness and then stitch an ultrawide view of the scene (from top-to-bottom, left-to-right) will give you an ultrawide angle view without the associated distortion of say a 10-20mm at 10mm. Of course, to maintain consistent sharpness when you stitch something like this kailangan manual focus and set the WB to one temperature (say Daylight) para consistent ang sharpness and color cast.

Again, the DOF concept is from the film era. Digital na tayo, with sensors that will unmask yung akala natin eh mga tamang concepts from the film era.

Readers, don't get me wrong... I use equipment from those era because some of them will beat the cr*p out of the current offerings out there. Pero I look at the concepts very carefully kung pwede pa rin ba sa digital era. Don't take anything at its face value. Always question the norm.

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[junaquino]

Any Stacking software that your can recommend that would be best for landscape.

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[Thor Lidasan]

Any Stacking software that your can recommend that would be best for landscape.

Any stacking program kasi at most 3-5 shots lang naman gagamitin mo. In Photoshop pwede na rin. Photoshop lang gamitin mo kung meron ka na. Merong din mga free stacking programs (open source).

Pero if you get interested talaga sa stacking (macro, landscapes, etc.), the one I recommend is Zerene. Yung student edition (kailangan student ID) is only $39:

http://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/docs/gallery

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[ipepot]

mga bros baka makatulong ito
http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/shooting/using-hyperfocal-distance-to-ensure-maximum-depth-of-field-in-landscape-photography/

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